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Cozumel

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Rodale's Cozumel Info

 

Scuba Diving in Cozumel and
the Mexican Caribbean

An Undercurrent Insider Report
The Consumer Newsletter for Serious Divers Since 1975

Overview of Cozumel and the Mexican Caribbean

On one trip to Cozumel, John Q. did a pirouette on the deck of the dive boat and counted 28 other dive boats.... Once visited mainly by divers, cruise ships now regularly disgorge great packs of shoppers who descend on the flashy night clubs, restaurants and bars galore, and sidewalk hustlers hawking condos, serapes that are questionable bargains, and little plaster statues of guys wearing big hats leaning on saguaro cactuses.... Spectacular dives do exist, but many operators are reluctant to visit these sites, especially if the divers aboard have mixed experience levels, and rightfully so, because much of Cozumel's diving (especially the advanced sites like Punta Sur Two, Tunich, and Barracuda) is deep or fast-current drift dives. Beginning divers should select other destinations.... Carry surface-signaling devices for both day and night (strobe, safety sausage, etc.) and stay with your dive guide or group.... Dive operators vary widely in quality and safety.... The best diving is in spring and summer; it can be rainy during the fall (hurricane season) and winter. There's better diving on the western side toward the southern end of Cozumel, with the eastern side generally unsafe to dive. Best dives include Palancar, Santa Rosa, Maracaibo, Punta Sur, and Colombia reefs.... Expect water temperatures in low- to mid-80s. Visibility is consistently the best in Caribbean.... Cozumel is one of the biggest travel bargains, with accommodations ranging from the inexpensive downtown hotel Bahia, to diver hangouts La Ceiba and the Galapago Inn, to higher-dollar hotels like El Presidente or Sol Caribe.... Almost like having a new Caribbean dive destination, the immense unexplored reef structure of Chinchorro Banks off the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula has become accessible to divers this year, with two new resorts opening up south of the Sian Ka'an biosphere along the coast road down to Xcalak. The high-end, all-inclusive Costa Maya is slated to open by January 2000, while the smaller Maya Ha Resort is already open. Both resorts offer myriad adventure tours and activities in addition to diving, making this region an excellent choice for serious divers looking for reefs where few divers have finned as well as divers who travel with non-divers.

 

 

General Info

Cozumel is, IMNSHO,  a good 1st time "Out of country diver's dive site".  It offers Clear, Warm Waters (and that's hard to beat compared to Seattle Waters), easy access to the beaches/boats, close to town with night life and some fairly good restaurants, and good hotels.  It's a good experience for drift diving at the more popular places and offers a few varieties of life.  Boat Schedules are accommodating and there are plenty of dive shops and services.

Flight times are not bad, 3 hours from Seattle to Houston, about 2 hour layover and 2 hours to Cozumel.  Short 15 minute ride through town to the hotel.  Would recommend and hotel near town or prepare for a $3-4 taxi each way.  Main part of town comes to life when the tourist boats come in and the nightlife usually begins around 10-11pm...  doable  for the younger generation, but diving at 8 am makes is a little rough... especially after running the conga line at Senior Froggies a few times....

I say a good 1st time out of country dive in that there are more colorful dive spots around.  Although I've been to Cozumel twice now, the first time it was wonder fully, 15 years ago, now, having been lucky enough to experience a few other places, it is pretty much OK.... Doubtful I'd go back again.  But  would strongly recommend it for the 1st timer to get the experience of Out of Country Diving in clearer Warmer water..  Good trip overall, no one caught any traveling illnesses that I was aware of and generally had a good time.

Now, lets get to diving.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A typical day begins as a 8:00 am Locker Call.  Lockers are provided by the dive shop, Dive Paradise, at the hotel, Costa Club.  The boat arrives around 8:15 and usually off by 8:30 for about a 20-60minute ride.

 

 

...and sooooo

 

down we go....

 

the Cattle Boat  has arrived....

 

 

 

 

 

 

This "Floral Arrangement" is pretty common on the floor, usually the Pinkish sponges or coral branches with something crawling inside.

These little Arrow  Crabs are all over the place 

if you look for them...

 

 

 

 

 

and a few of these "colorful" fishies...

Not a whole bunch of them, 

but enough to try to catch'em,

as you can.....

Typically, I snap the shutter just as the fish turns away or towards me, thus picking up a thin line and not the side...

After about 20 shots, they just give up and swim away

AND then....

I get the shot...

 

 

 

Swimming or more to the point

DRIFTING right along

A few were taking Video, some pictures

and others just memories...

The reefs/walls run along the coast to about 1/2 mile out with a depth  from 50-90' and then a wall, 
That
drops several thousand feet down.  Along the drop, you can swim through the pinnacles which is kinda neato and on the top shelf it's fairly flat, with rocky islands about 3-10' high.

You just glide along like a "Slo-Mo Superman/woman"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can stop drifting by ducking around behind the reefs to an eddy or just keep on trucking down the line...

The current, for the most part, isn't that strong (or wasn't on this trip as it can be) so staying in one spot for a little bit isn't that difficult.  You can actually swim against it if you want to watch your Air Gauge tick down to zero... again, in certain areas

Simple technique is....

roll with the flow...

 

Of course some people

just drift along not sure where the bottom is...

Or even care?

It's such a pleasant dive...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The colors are a little deceiving...

What looks as bland and pale, 

when brightened up with Sun? light (flashes)

Paints them in Pastels

which always makes it neat....

 

and  into the tunnels we go...

It looks a little tighter than it is...

No current, just a simple swim through, hug the bottom 

and it's a Piece 'O Cake...

and fun too....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some even light up the tunnels...

Those Video lights certainly

 "light up my life...."

Or is it something from the "X-Files"

Coming to a theater near you...

SOON.....

 

 

 

 

Would you believe that these look "Black" when swimming by..

It was by accident that I found they were actually RED

When a flash accidentally hit one...

(although color was enhanced a little it's still a deep red)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some even look like they should be alive as in Critters...

A lot of these can go unnoticed as they are underneath or along the side of walls...

 

 

 

...and some are a lighter in colors..

It's amazing what colors appear when lit up...

you could just swim right on by and never see the coloring

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway,

it's about time we got some fish in here...

 

And just before we end this dive...

we need to think about dinner...

In Cozumel, they give new meaning to

choosing your lobster from the 

LOBSTER TANK...

I like my lobster to come to me ....

on a silver platter with Champagne...

This was a close call....

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, OK... 

Back on the surface we go...

Typical night was to meet in the hotel Lobby? aka Bar at around 7-ish then walk to town or grab a taxi.  

Walking is doable for about 20 minutes or so...

just about the max for walking and minimum for Taxies

 

 

 

And walking it is 

usually...

 

 

 

 

 

 

And a happy group we were...

Good Diving

Good Walking

Good Toasting...

 

And especially a 

GOOD Crowd..

 

Senior Froggies?

no....Carlos 'N Charlie's !!!!

Nooo Senior Froggies!!!

NOOOO..... CARLOS 'N CHARLIE'S !!!!!

Ok, OK...

So after din-din

there's a little discussion on where to go next....

 

 

 

 

 

So we did them 

Both....

 

 

Da Frog....

 

 

 

And  the next day....

Some simply don't feel the need for air...

and feel the fish need it more than they do....

but back to reality.....

 

and back to the cattle boat...

actually it wasn't bad at all.

We had plenty of room on the boat..

Of course, I forgot to take a picture, duh???

but there was plenty of room on board...

 

 

 

 

Since we had the lobster ready and willing to come 

out into the open -for Dinner...

 

These Arrow crabs don't need to worry too much about being used for meal times...

unless you needed toothpicks....

Hmmm I wonder if they're related to the Alaskan King Crab....

you ya think?

 

(ps. no critters were eaten nor harmed that we know about anyways)

 

 

Lot'sa these around...  

 

 

 

And a few of these,

There were regular Eagle Rays

about 4-5 ft across

that I've seen on a previous trip.

believe only saw 2 on this one, but there were supposedly 5 swimming around the boat

or maybe they were porpoises??

Fergit??

and a few

show offs....

 

 

 

These are Jackknife Fish...

Hard to catch, but got these right off the Hotel beach.

 

 

and a few of these Cow ( Boxer?) fish...
I had one follow me for about 300 yards in Bonaire.
I'd turn, it would turn...

Didn't do that here...
Maybe a little more friendly in Bonaire???

 

 

and various colors..

 

some more colors,

it's hard enough to catch them sideways, much less 
to pop'em with the flash

 

Believe this is a Stone fish, brown grumpy fish?
POISONOUS to say the least

 

 

 

More of these... 

kinda get in the way.... (joking)

More Fluff.....

 

 

And these brown thingies....

 

 

 

 

Again, those Arrow crabs justa hiding away...
Heheheh... like they have to worry about being eaten ??

 

.... and a little 

Moray action... they were usually hiding deep in the rocks
Well, most of the time anyway....

 

 

 

this was a tough one.  A Bat Fish

I had to swim up current, didn't have the flash working yet and snapped what I could.  I'm told this is an unusual fish...

Aren't they all....

 

Ok so cruising right along now....

 

...and some get a little bored...

AND  just drift away relaxed..

 

so back to the surface for a 5 minute DECO stop
Would strongly recommend the Red Sausages attached to a 20' line.

There are a lot of boats cruising around and having to come near one can get a bit messy.  The dive masters have one, but chances of being near him when it's time to come up are slim and non...

 

and back to the ranch....

Rinse, lock-up and hit the hotel... get the cameras ready for tomorrow..

 

 

Since we had our own Entertainer,
Chuckles the clown
We sang his praise... under the table..

But Wait, there's more....

 

 

He continued on...
Everybody luvs Chuckles...
Even Bikers....

 

and out for a little after dinner activities...
(actually out of context as this was another dinner night, but shows the street traffic)

 

and back to diving....

There is a ship wreck that is shallow and a good wreck to dive. Perfectly safe, access points and guide ropes...

All this and Clear Warm water TOO!!!

What will they think of next....

 

and down the anchor rope we go....

 

 

starting at the bottom.....

 

up to the main deck....

 

Up the ladder and down the hatch we go...

 

back out and through the door
to grandmothers house we go....

 

 

 

 

We're OFF to see the Wizard...

The wonderful Wizard of OZ.... to the bow...

Yawnnnnnnn.... Ho-Hummm
It's tough diving  in these rough conditions..
Not like Seattle at all....

Just hanging out, thinking of the Titanic movie...

 

Now you know it had to be done...  ;-))

 

 

and back to diving....

 

I know, I know...

Looks phony... but it's real...
and we're off to the races....

 

Too many lemons???

 

 

Too many cherries????????

 

Just a wandering centipede who got lost???

(Joking)

 

 

Little ferns......

 

 

 

That's about all for the underwater folks,
See you on the surface....
Ahem... No, that's NOT me in the pic...

(Although I do have other pics, this is long enough... for now)

 

 

 

After an early return, we rented some jeeps and drove the island.  On the South East Side, just as the road turns North, there's a place called Bob's Marley Bar.. has some good Nachos and refreshments...

Not to mention the great view...

and the Ladies of Muscle Beach, doing their 

Morning exercise routine....

 

 

1-2-3- lift

1-2-3 lift......

 

And then refreshment time...

Just enjoying the view....

 

And that wraps up this trip...

Hope you enjoyed the pics...

It was a good trip overall, but ready for another place....

Cheers.